others of a similar nature on the African coast. All
looked forbidding and barren. Swallows were flitting about, and would
have meant summer at home, but I fancy they are here all winter. The
heat of the sun was intense, and I observed that his altitude seemed
as high as I was accustomed to see him in midsummer.

The captain soon pointed out "The Rock," and after passing the white
town of Tarifa on the Spanish main it got clearer and clearer, but to
our disgust our boat kept towards the south side of the Straits, and
all were disappointed we were not to have a chance to post letters
here as we expected. Tangier in the outer part of the Straits was
invisible from mist. The Rock was not quite as impressive as I
expected, nor could I with certainty make out more than one gun
position, although I saw several black spots where guns may have
frowned at us.

A gunboat came after us and made us turn about in a circle till she
was satisfied of our identity, the ship's number being invisible
through the mist to those on shore. Ceuta with its snow-white houses
lay on the south coast almost opposite Gibraltar. Some large buildings
could be plainly seen, and between the town and the sea, on the
north-east side the fortified hill held by the Spaniards since they
lost Gibraltar.

Later I found we sailed directly east, our next halt being as yet
unknown. All roll has entirely departed from our ship, which almost
seems unnatural after the tossing we have had. What struck me most
to-day was the rocky nature of both sides of the Straits--we might
have been among the rugged mountains of Ross-shire. Apes Head seemed
to be made of rugged and split masses of limestone. The rocks with
their bright colours were a great relief to our eyes which had rested
on nothing but water for five days.

_March 24th._--A quiet uneventful day; colder than yesterday in the
Atlantic. I find that all along we have sailed with only two lights
showing, both faint, one on either end of the bridge, red to port and
green to starboard. In the last twenty-four hours we covered 286
miles, and going east fast, the clock being now advanced twenty-three
minutes daily. We left Avonmouth with 1500 tons of coal on board, and
we use sixty-five tons daily. We carry a poultry yard and get fresh
eggs for breakfast, one some one had to-day was so fresh that
according to the date written on it it was laid to-morrow (25/3/15).
We have a lot of Irishmen on board which explain