ll they had before exhibited, and it was doubtful, if attacked,
whether they would not run to return to their lately-formed friends.
All arrangements had been concluded by the 15th of May, 1860, and the
journey was commenced.
As the Banyai, who live on the right bank, were said to levy heavy
fines, the party crossed over to the left.
Dr Livingstone was stopping near the Kebrabasa village, when a man
appeared, who pretended that he was a _pondoro_; that is, that he could
change himself into a lion whenever he chose--a statement his countrymen
fully believed. Sometimes the _pondoro_ hunts for the benefit of the
villagers, when his wife takes him some medicine which enables him to
change himself back into a man. She then announces what game has been
killed, and the villagers go into the forest to bring it home. The
people believe also that the souls of the departed chiefs enter into
lions. One night, a buffalo having been killed, a lion came close to
the camp, when the Makololo declared that he was a _pondoro_, and told
him that he ought to be ashamed of himself for trying to steal the meat
of strangers. The lion, however, disregarding their addresses, only
roared louder than ever, though he wisely kept outside the bright circle
of the camp-fires. A little strychnine was placed on a piece of meat
and thrown to him, after which he took his departure, and was never
again seen.
Again passing Kebrabasa, the travellers enjoyed the magnificent mountain
scenery in this neighbourhood, and came to the conclusion that not only
it, but the Morumbwa could, when the river rises, be passed, so as to
allow of a steamer being carried up to run on the upper Zambesi.
On the 20th of June they reached the territory of the chief Mpende, who
had, on Dr Livingstone's journey to the East Coast, threatened to
attack him. Having in the mean time heard that he belonged to a race
who love black men and did not make slaves, his conduct was now
completely changed, and he showed every desire to be friendly.
Game was abundant, and lions were especially numerous.
After visiting Zumbo, Dr Kirk was taken dangerously ill. He got better
on the high ground, but immediately he descended into the valley he
always felt chilly. In six days, however, he was himself again, and
able to march as well as the rest.
Again abundance of honey was obtained through the means of the "honey
guide." The bird never deceived them, always guiding them to
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