e voyagers changed their boatmen, none being willing
to go beyond the village next them. This was provoking, as delays
constantly occurred.

At length they reached Magimgo, situated inside an immense bed of reeds,
at the top of a hill, above the mouth of a large river. Passing up a
channel amidst a perfect wilderness of vegetation, they reached the
shore below the town. Here they were met by their guide, who had
brought their riding oxen from Vakovia, and reported them all well.

The chief of Magimgo and a large number of natives were also on the
shore waiting for them, and brought them down a plentiful supply of
goats, fowls, eggs, and fresh butter.

Proceeding on foot to the height on which Magimgo stands, they thence
enjoyed a magnificent view, not only over the lake, but to the north,
towards the point where its waters flow into the Nile.

Baker's great desire was to descend the Nile in canoes, from its exit
from the lake to the cataracts in the Madi country, and thence to march
direct, with only guns and ammunition, to Gondokoro. This plan he found
impossible to carry out.

Before their return to the canoes, Mr Baker himself was laid prostrate
with fever, and most of his men were also suffering.

They had heard, however, of a magnificent waterfall up the river. They
accordingly proceeded up it, and, as they got about eighteen miles above
Magimgo, a slight current was perceived. The river gradually narrowed
to about a hundred and eighty yards, and now, when the paddles ceased
working, the roar of water could be distinctly heard. Continuing on,
the noise became louder. An enormous number of crocodiles were seen,
and Mr Baker counted, on one sandbank alone, twenty-seven of large
size.

Reaching a deserted fishing village, the crew at first refused to
proceed further, but, on Mr Baker explaining that he merely wished to
see the falls, they paddled up the stream, now strong against them.

On rounding a point, a magnificent sight burst upon them. On either
side of the river were beautifully-wooded cliffs, rising abruptly to a
height of about three hundred feet, rocks jutting out from the intensely
green foliage, while, rushing through a gap which cleft the rock exactly
before them, was the river. It is here contracted from a grand stream
to the width of scarcely a hundred and fifty feet. Roaring fiercely
through the rock-bound pass, it plunged, in one leap of about a hundred
and twenty feet, perpendic