to
colour.

Saint Paul de Loanda, once a considerable city, has now fallen greatly
into decay. There are, however, many large stone houses, and the palace
of the governor, and the government offices, are substantial structures.
Trees are planted throughout the town for the sake of shade. Though
the dwellings of the native inhabitants are composed merely of wattle
and daub, from the sea they present an imposing appearance.

Though at first the government lost its chief revenue from the
suppression of the slave trade, it has again gradually increased by the
lawful commerce now carried on by its merchants. The officers are,
however, so badly paid that they are compelled to engage in mercantile
pursuits, and some attempt by bribes to assist the slave-dealers.

From the kind and generous treatment Dr Livingstone received from the
Portuguese, they rose deservedly high in his estimation.

He now prepared for his departure. The merchants sent a present to
Sekeletu, consisting of specimens of all their articles of trade and two
donkeys, that the breed might be introduced into his country, as the
_tsetse_ cannot kill those beasts of burden. The doctor was also
furnished with letters of recommendation to the Portuguese authorities
in Eastern Africa. The bishop likewise furnished him with twenty
carriers, and sent forward orders to the commandants of the districts to
the east to render him every assistance. He supplied himself with
ammunition, and beads, and a stock of cloth, and he gave each of his men
a musket. He had also purchased a horse for Sekeletu. His friends of
the "Philomel" fitted him out also with a new tent, and, on the 20th of
September, 1854, he and his party left Loanda, escorted by Mr Gabriel,
who, from his unwearied attentions and liberality to his men, had become
endeared to all their hearts.

Passing round by the sea, he ascended the River Bengo to Icollo-i-Bengo,
once the residence of a native king. While Mr Gabriel returned to
Loanda, Dr Livingstone and his party proceeded to Golcongo Alto, where
he left some of his men to rest, while he took an excursion to Kasenge,
celebrated for its coffee plantations. On his return he found several
of them suffering from fever, while one of them had gone out of his
mind, but in a short time recovered.

The doctor had the satisfaction of returning the kindness he received
from Mr Canto, the commandant, by attending him during a severe attack
of illness.