coast, on which account it was not
till the 23rd that we came opposite to the port of Havannah.

HAVANNAH.

Than the approach to this city, and its first appearance from the
water, it is impossible to conceive anything more grand and
imposing. A little bay, extremely narrow at the entrance, forms
the harbour. On each side of it stand forts of prodigious
strength, particularly those on the left, where the ground is
considerably elevated, whilst the city itself, with its ramparts
and towers, its numerous steeples, spires, and public
buildings, gives an assurance of wealth and magnificence
peculiarly striking. When we entered, every tower was surmounted
by a national banner half-mast high, a circumstance which did not
at least diminish the effect of a first view; and the guns from
the forts answering our salute, showed us how desperate must be
the condition of an enemy that should venture within their
range. Why the flags should thus indicate a general mourning, we
were at a loss to guess, till the pilot informed us that this was
Holy week. Then, indeed, we remembered that we had returned to a
Roman Catholic country, and rejoiced at the lucky accident which
had brought us thither at such a season.

As it was late before we anchored, I was prevented from landing
that night, but on the morrow I went on shore at an early hour,
with the intention of seeing as much as my time would allow. But
in my proposed visits to the different points worthy of attention
I was interrupted. It was Good-Friday, consequently all public
places were shut, and neither guides nor carriages could be
procured. But if I was disappointed in this, my disappointment
was amply compensated by a view of the religious ceremonies
peculiar to that day.

Walking into the largest church in the city, I beheld beside the
altar a figure of our Saviour as large as life nailed to a cross.
Beside this figure stood a number of monks, one of whom presented
a rod with a sponge affixed to its mouth, while a second thrust a
spear into its side, from which came out a liquor having the
colour of blood and water. This being carefully caught in a
golden dish, the figure was taken down from the cross, wrapped
round with white linen clothes, and laid upon a bier, when an
imposing procession began in the following order: First marched a
military band playing slow and solemn music; next came a guard of
soldiers with heads bent down and arms reversed; then followed