ly Giovanni
Bellini, with sacred relics in jars above and below it, and outside is
the gay little cloistered garden of the still existing monastery, with
a figure of S. Francis in the midst of its greenery.

So much for the more ingratiating details of this great church, which
are displayed with much spirit by a young sacristan who is something of
a linguist: his English consisting of the three phrases: "Good morning,"
"Very nice," and "Come on!"

The great church has also various tombs of Doges, the most splendid
being that noble floor slab in front of the high altar, beneath which
repose the bones of Marcantonio Trevisan (1553-1554). What Trevisan was
like may be learned from the relief over the sacristy entrance, where he
kneels to the crucifix. He made no mark on his times. Andrea Gritti
(1523-1538), who also is buried here, was a more noticeable ruler, a
born monarch who had a good diplomatic and fighting training abroad
before he came to the throne. He was generous, long-memoried, astute,
jovial, angry, healthy, voluptuous and an enthusiast for his country. He
not only did all that he could for Venice (and one of his unfulfilled
projects was to extend the Ducal Palace to absorb the prison) but he was
quite capable of single-handed negotiations with foreign rulers.

Other Doges who lie here are the two Contarini, Francesco (1623-1624)
and Alvise (1676-1684), but neither was of account; and here, too, in
his own chapel lies Alvise's predecessor, Niccolo Sagredo (1674-1676)
who had trouble in Candia for his constant companion. Of the Giustiniani
only Marcantonio became a Doge and he succeeded Alvise Contarini not
only to the throne but to the Candia difficulty, giving way after four
years, in 1688, to the great soldier who solved it--Francesco Morosini.

CHAPTER XXI

ON FOOT. III. THE MERCERIA AND THE RIALTO

Walking in Venice--The late Colonel Douglas--Shops--The Merceria
clock--S. Zulian--S. Salvatore--Sansovino--Carlo Goldoni--the Campo
Bartolommeo and Mr. Howells--S. Giovanni Crisostomo--Piombo and
Giorgione--A Sacristan artist--Marino Faliero's house--SS. Apostoli and
Tiepolo--Venetian skittles--A broad walk--Filled in canals--The Rialto
Bridge--S. Giacomo di Rialto--The two Ghettos--The Rialto
hunchback--Vegetables and fruits--The fish market--Symmetrical irony--S.
Giovanni Elemosinario--A busy thoroughfare--Old books--The convivial
gondoliers.

The best of Venice--Venice itself, that is--can ne