has, I suppose, the poorest
congregation of all, is dedicated to one of whom I had never before
thought as a saint, although his merits are unmistakable--Job. Its
special distinction is the beautiful chapel of the high altar designed
by the Lombardi (who made S. Maria dei Miracoli) for Doge Cristoforo
Moro to the glory of S. Bernardino of Siena. S. Bernardino is here and
also S. Anthony of Padua and S. Lawrence. At each corner is an exquisite
little figure holding a relief.

On the floor is the noble tombstone of the Doge himself (1462-1471) by
Pietro Lombardi. Moro had a distinguished reign, which saw triumphs
abroad and the introduction of printing into the city; but to the
English he has yet another claim to distinction, and that is that most
probably he was the Moro of Venice whom Shakespeare when writing
_Othello_ assumed to be a Moor.

The church also has a chapel with a Delia Robbia ceiling and sculpture
by Antonio Rossellino. The best picture is by Paris Bordone, a mellow
and rich group of saints.

This book has been so much occupied with the high-ways of Venice--and
far too superficially, I fear--that the by-ways have escaped attention;
and yet the by-ways are the best. The by-ways, however, are for each of
us separately, whereas the high-ways are common property: let that--and
conditions of space--be my excuse. The by-ways must be sought
individually, either straying where one's feet will or on some such
thorough plan as that laid down in Col. Douglas's most admirable book,
_Venice on Foot_. Some of my own unaided discoveries I may mention just
as examples, but there is no real need: as good a harvest is for every
quiet eye.

There is the tiniest medieval cobbler's shop you ever saw under a
staircase in a courtyard reached by the Sotto-portico Secondo Lucatello,
not far from S. Zulian, with a medieval cobbler cobbling in it day and
night. There is a relief of graceful boys on the Rio del Palazzo side of
the Doges' Palace; there is a S. George and Dragon on a building on the
Rio S. Salvatore just behind the Bank of Italy; there is a doorway at
3462 Rio di S. Margherita; there is the Campo S. Maria Mater Domini with
a house on the north side into whose courtyard much ancient sculpture
has been built. There is a yellow palace on the Rio di S. Marina whose
reflection in the water is most beautiful. There is the overhanging
street leading to the Ponte del Paradiso. There is the Campo of S.
Giacomo dell'Orio,