tained. This statue is vigorous, and one feels that it is true to
life, but for the old admiral at his finest and most vivid you must go
to Vienna, where Tintoretto's superb and magnificent portrait of him is
preserved. There he stands, the old sea dog, in his armour, but
bare-headed, and through a window you see the Venetian fleet riding on a
blue sea. It is one of the greatest portraits in the world and it ought
to be in Venice.

The chapel of the Rosary, which is entered just by the statue of Venier,
was built in honour of his Lepanto victory. It was largely destroyed by
fire in 1867, and is shown by an abrupt white-moustached domineering
guide who claims to remember it before that time. Such wood carving as
was saved ("Saved! Saved!" he raps out in tones like a pistol shot) is
in the church proper, in the left aisle. Not to be rescued were Titian's
great "Death of S. Peter, Martyr" a copy of which, presented by King
Victor Emmanuel, is in the church, and a priceless altar-piece by
Giovanni Bellini. The beautiful stone reliefs by Sansovino are in their
original places, and remain to-day as they were mutilated by the flames.
Their unharmed portions prove their exquisite workmanship, and
fortunately photography has preserved for us their unimpaired form. An
American gentleman who followed me into the church, after having
considered for some time as to whether or not he (who had "seen ten
thousand churches") would risk the necessary fifty centimes, expressed
himself, before these Sansovino masterpieces, as glad he came. "These
reliefs," he said to me, "seem to be of a high order of merit." The
restoration of the chapel is being carried out thoroughly but slowly.
Modern Sansovinos, in caps made from the daily paper, are stone-cutting
all day long, and will be for many years to come.

Returning to the church proper, we find more Doges. An earlier Venier
Doge, Antonio (1382-1400), is here. In the left aisle is another fine
Ducal monument, that of Pasquale Malipiero (1457-1462), who succeeded
Foscari on his deposal and was the first Doge to be present at the
funeral of another, for Foscari died only ten days after his fall. Here
also lie Doge Michele Steno (1400-1413), who succeeded Antonio Venier,
and who as a young man is credited with the insult which may be said to
have led to all Marino Faliero's troubles. For Steno having annoyed the
Doge by falling in love with a maid of honour, Faliero forbade him the
palace, and i