or peaches just
before the ice is ready to pack down; otherwise the fruit, being full of
water, will freeze into hard knots.

_Tutti-frutti Ice-Cream_ being made from chopped candied fruit, this
precaution is not necessary; the fruit may be added at any time during
the freezing, or stirred in last, as you please.

I have given the simplest and best method of making ice-cream, yet the
way most in use is to add custard; and French cooks always use "meringue
paste," claiming that it insures a smoothness and lightness nothing else
can give.

_Custard for Ice-Cream._--This is made as any other custard, except that
double the amount of sugar is allowed for everything that is to be
frozen. It may be made of from three to six eggs to a pint of milk, as
you prefer. This must be ice cold before you put it in the freezer.

_Ice-Cream with Eggs._--One pint of milk, three eggs, leaving out one
white, half a pound of sugar (if acid fruit is to be added, it may
require more for some tastes). Make a custard of these materials, and
half freeze it; then add a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir in well and
finish freezing, turning the handle some few minutes after it gets
pretty stiff, if there is a strong enough hand near to do it.

In making varieties of ice-cream you have only to consider the fitness
of the articles you use; for instance, any sort of fruit may be added,
with the exception of lemons. Fleshy fruits, such as pineapple, peaches,
pears, etc., are usually mixed with the cream uncooked in this country;
abroad this is only done with soft fruits, such as raspberries,
blackberries, oranges, and such as will mash through a colander. Others
are very slightly stewed in rich syrup (as nearly their own juice as
possible), then pulped and mixed through when the cream is nearly
frozen.

In winter, fruit jams, and especially jellies, are very pleasant in
ice-cream; they always require a little lemon juice to restore some of
the natural sharpness of fresh fruit. A tumbler of red currant jelly
turned into a pint of ice-cream is delicious, and gives a pretty, faint
pink tint. The method is just the same whether for custard and cream or
cream alone.

The meringue paste alluded to as used by foreign confectioners is made
by beating the white of an egg with a tablespoonful of powdered sugar
until stiff.

_Grilled Almond Ice-Cream._--Make a quart of ice-cream; grill some
almonds in the following way: Blanch four ounces of almonds, dry