FREE BOOKS

Author's List




PREV.   NEXT  
|<   45   46   47   48   49   50   51   52   53   54   55   56   57   58   59   60   61   62   63   64   65   66   67   68   69  
70   71   72   73   74   75   76   77   78   79   80   81   82   83   84   85   86   87   88   89   90   91   92   93   94   >>   >|  
few stringers and braces to support it. When only a few planks are used the term "corduroy the bank" is used (see Fig. 37). [Illustration: FIG. 37.--Arrangement of plank for gravel.] ROCK.--Where rock is encountered, blasting is resorted to. The plumber should not attempt to handle a job requiring the use of powder. It is dangerous in the hands of a person not used to handling it and the work should be sublet. A sketch of the two methods above for planking trenches is given and a little study will make them clear. LAYING OF PIPE The pipe should be laid on the bottom of the trench to a pitch of at least 1/4 inch per foot fall. In laying, the start should be made at the street sewer with hubs of pipe toward the building. The trench should be dug within a few inches of the bottom of the pipe, then as the pipe is laid the exact depth is dug out, the surplus dirt being thrown on the pipe already laid. The body length of pipe should be on solid foundation. A space dug out for each hub as shown in Fig. 38 allows for this, also allows for the proper cementing of joints. To get the proper pitch of pipe, take for example 1/4 inch per foot, a level 2 feet long with a piece of wood or metal on one end 1/2 inch thick will answer. The end with the 1/2-inch piece on should be on the lower hub and the other end resting on the hub of the pipe about to be put in place. When the bubble shows level, then the pipe has the 1/4-inch fall per foot. If a tile trap is used, it should be laid level, otherwise the seal will be weakened or entirely broken. [Illustration: FIG. 38.--Laying terra-cotta pipe.] CUTTING.--The cutting of tile is not difficult, but must be done carefully or the pipe will crack or a piece will be broken out, thus making the pipe worthless. To cut tile or terra-cotta pipe, stand the pipe on end with the hub down, fill the pipe with sand to the point of cutting. With a sharp chisel and hammer cut around the pipe two or three times and the pipe will crack around practically straight. CEMENTING.--If the pipe is free from cracks, the only possible way roots can get into the inside of terra-cotta pipe is through the cement joint. There are two ways of making these joints. Both ways are explained below and are used today on terra-cotta work. _First._--The bottom of the hub of pipe in place is filled with cement and the straight end of the next piece of pipe is laid in place, then more cement
PREV.   NEXT  
|<   45   46   47   48   49   50   51   52   53   54   55   56   57   58   59   60   61   62   63   64   65   66   67   68   69  
70   71   72   73   74   75   76   77   78   79   80   81   82   83   84   85   86   87   88   89   90   91   92   93   94   >>   >|  



Top keywords:
bottom
 

cement

 

making

 

joints

 

broken

 

proper

 
cutting
 

trench

 

straight

 

Illustration


resting

 

bubble

 

inside

 

explained

 
answer
 

filled

 

carefully

 

chisel

 

hammer

 

worthless


Laying
 

cracks

 

CUTTING

 
practically
 
CEMENTING
 

difficult

 

weakened

 

surplus

 

dangerous

 

powder


handle

 

requiring

 

person

 

handling

 

trenches

 

planking

 

sublet

 
sketch
 

methods

 

attempt


plumber

 

corduroy

 
planks
 
stringers
 

braces

 

support

 
Arrangement
 

encountered

 
blasting
 

resorted