arade-ground, at a gallop, a big,
rawboned man on a lathy-red American horse. The brute cracked his
nostrils, and switched his flag abroad, and romped across the plain,
while his rider dropped one hand and sat still, swaying lightly from the
hips. The two served to scale the surroundings. Some one really ought to
tell the Mikado that ponies were never intended for dragoons.

If the changes and chances of military service ever send you against
Japanese troops, be tender with their cavalry. They mean no harm. Put
some fusees down for the horses to step on, and send a fatigue-party out
to pick up the remnants. But if you meet Japanese infantry, led by a
Continental officer, commence firing early and often and at the longest
ranges compatible with getting at them. They are bad little men who know
too much.

Having thoroughly settled the military side of the nation exactly as my
Japanese friend at the beginning of this letter settled Us,--on the
strength of two hundred men caught at random,--I devoted myself to a
consideration of Tokio. I am wearied of temples. Their monotony of
splendour makes my head ache. You also will weary of temples unless you
are an artist, and then you will be disgusted with yourself. Some folk
say that Tokio covers an area equal to London. Some folk say that it is
not more than ten miles long and eight miles broad. There are a good
many ways of solving the question. I found a tea-garden situated on a
green plateau far up a flight of steps, with pretty girls smiling on
every step. From this elevation I looked forth over the city, and it
stretched away from the sea, far as the eye could reach--one grey
expanse of packed house-roof, the perspective marked by numberless
factory chimneys. Then I went several miles away and found a park,
another eminence, and some more tea-girls prettier than the last; and,
looking again, the city stretched out in a new direction as far as the
eye could reach. Taking the scope of the eye on a clear day at eighteen
miles, I make Tokio thirty-six miles long by thirty-six miles broad
exactly; and there may be some more which I missed. The place roared
with life through all its quarters. Double lines of trams ran down the
main streets for mile on mile, rows of omnibuses stood at the principal
railway station, and the "Compagnie General des Omnibus de Tokio"
paraded the streets with gold and vermilion cars. All the trams were
full, all the private and public omnibuses were fu