enty inhabitants. The scattered
population on the banks of the river amounts, however, to an equal,
or probably greater number than in the villages. Beyond Guntong
the country becomes wild, but beautiful, and the river gradually
narrows until not above twenty-five yards wide. The depth, however,
was three fathoms at high water, where we brought up for the night,
about five hours' pull from Guntong. The course of the river is so
tortuous, that in one place two reaches are only divided by a neck
of land five yards across!

"We were now fairly in the bush, and beyond the range of our Pangeran's
knowledge; and I was not therefore surprised (though disappointed)
when he intimated the necessity of returning. 'There was nothing to
see; the river was narrow, rapid, and obstructed by trees; the Dyaks
hostile; the rajah's enemies in ambush.'

"I had nothing to answer, save my desire to proceed; but I felt, at
the same time, bound in honor to return; for to abuse the indulgence
of a native prince on our first excursion would have been a poor way
to obtain his future permission to visit other places.

"I did everything man could do to shake the Pangeran's resolution;
and I believe I should have been successful, had his stock of tobacco
and sirih [5] not been expended. My last resource was resorting to
the means found efficient with most men to induce them to alter
their opinion. I was content to gain a consent to our proceeding
some miles farther up the stream in the morning, and then returning
with the ebb. Nothing during this contention could be more polite
than the Pangeran's manner; for he not only expressed but looked his
regret, and urged on me his responsibility to the rajah. The plea was
unanswerable, though I could not help suspecting the want of tobacco
and betel as the leading motive.

"_24th._--We proceeded, as previously agreed, up the river some
ten or twelve miles farther, during which distance it narrows to
an inconsiderable but deep stream. In many places it was not above
eighteen feet wide, with trees overhanging the water. The depth was
2 1/2 fathoms high water; but being the rainy season, it would not
be deeper than necessary for boats all the year round. In the early
morning the jungle presented a charming scene. Long vistas of noble
trees with a diversity of richest foliage were before us--in some
places overarching the water, and forming a verdant canopy above
our heads. Birds were numerous, and woke the