is the Tanjan, a small stream;
and some distance from it, the Kulluong, or Parwheet river, more
properly the continuation of the Riam. On the port hand is a smaller
river, running N. 35 deg. E. We pursued this stream, called Ugong Passer;
and after a hard pull against a strong tide, emerged into the larger
river of Samarahan. The tide was so strong against us that we brought
up for a couple of hours till it slacked, and between four and five
got under weigh again, with the expectation of shortly arriving at
our place of destination. Hour after hour passed, however; the sun
set; the glorious moon rose upon our progress as we toiled slowly but
cheerfully onward. Silence was around, save when broken by the wild
song of the Malay boatmen, responded to by the song of our tars to
the tune of 'Bonnie laddie, Highland laddie.'
"It was such a situation as an excitable mind might envy. The
reflection that we were proceeding up a Borneon river hitherto
unknown, sailing where no European ever sailed before; the deep
solitude, the brilliant night, the dark fringe of retired jungle,
the lighter foliage of the river bank, with here and there a tree
flashing and shining with fireflies, nature's tiny lamps glancing and
flitting in countless numbers and incredible brilliancy! At eleven at
night we reached Samarahan, having been eighteen hours in the boat,
and fifteen at the oars, chiefly against tide. The men were tired,
but cheerful. Indeed, I can give them no praise beyond their merits
for conduct spirited, enduring, and yet so orderly as never to offend
the native inhabitants, or infringe upon their prejudices. A glass of
grog with our supper, and we all soon closed our eyes in comfortable
sleep, such as fatigue alone can bring.
"_22d._--The village of Samarahan consists of a few houses, built,
as usual, upon posts, and standing close to the brink of the river. It
contains from sixty to eighty inhabitants in all, and there is nothing
in its site different from the rest of the country. While here, a boat,
with a Dyak family, came alongside, consisting of a father, his son,
and two daughters. They belonged to the Sibnowan tribe, and had a
'ladang,' or farm, on the Samarahan, toward the sea. The women were
good-looking; one, indeed, handsome, plump, and intelligent. They
were naked to the waist, and ornamented with several cinctures of
brass and colored rattans scraped very thin.
"About ten we quitted Samarahan and proceeded up the
|