p were fast asleep.

II.

TO BIR EL NUS AND KATYA.

The camels left the camp the first thing in the morning, that they might
have a good start of us, and by half-past seven o'clock the luggage was
disposed of, and we were again in the saddle. The traces of our sojourn
were still visible upon the moving sand, but would in all probability
become obliterated soon after our departure. It was a glorious day, and
we felt braced and invigorated by the pure air of the desert. Proceeding
through a uniform plain covered with purslane bushes, we saw rising in
the distance to our right, or south-east, the Jebel Abou Assab,
"Mountains of the father of the sugar-cane." From the more elevated
spots of the undulating surface we could see two steamers passing up the
canal, one of which was Austrian. The spectacle of these enormous
vessels, with their tall masts, majestically advancing to all appearance
through a sea of sand (for the canal itself was invisible), had a most
singular effect, and made us appreciate anew the wonderful character of
M. De Lesseps's grand undertaking. It was not long, however, before the
highest masts disappeared like phantoms behind the sandy waves through
which our path lay. After passing a small hillock on our right, called
Gerba--"water skin," we reached an undulating piece of ground commanding
a view of the mountains above referred to, and of the group of palms
known as Zaega--"the Beautiful." At the same time the scene was
agreeably relieved by one of those phenomena so common in the desert. A
beautiful mirage became gradually developed to our left, displaying the
reflection of a large lake, with its irregular outline, and even showing
with marvellous vividness the ruffled surface of the water. At some
distance we observed several Bedouins, and not far from us some of their
women, most of whom were engaged in leading black goats to their scanty
pasturage.

A little further on, we came to a small hollow where at one time a
little water was to be met with, but which is now quite dry. We then met
a caravan of people from Ramleh, in Syria, who were taking a few
wretched horses and mules to Egypt for sale, and subsequently two
Bedouins, who applied to us for the customary backshish.

[Illustration: JEBEL ABOU ASSAB.]

Monotonous as our route was, we were not without entertainment and
sources of interest. Soon after starting we were joined by a remarkably
lean dromedary, bearing the mails from El