uct the
water drawn to the different watering-places. There we found a caravan
from Damascus, with a number of horses and mules in the charge of
several lank moukri, who were bound for Cairo. This herd, together with
the tall drivers, with their fine swarthy features, and the background
of gigantic palms, made up a strikingly harmonious and characteristic
picture, the effect of which was greatly enhanced by the fragrant aroma
of the desert, and the various colours it presented under the bright
rays of the morning sun.

Having no more time to spare, we resumed our way across the sandy plain,
and beautiful Katya soon vanished from our view like the fabric of a
vision. Here and there the uniformity and loneliness of the desert scene
were varied and enlivened by small groups of palms, beneath one of
which, after a long march, we fixed our midday station. The breeze
rustled gently through the crowns of the trees high over our heads,
while we lay on the ground gazing dreamily towards the yellowish horizon
clearly defined against the deep blue sky. All around reigned perfect
stillness. Now and then a party of Bedouin women, laden with
water-skins, passed us on the way to their tents, which probably were at
some hours' distance.

After a brief rest we again went forward through the sandy tract,
diversified only by occasional groups of palms, and after proceeding
some distance reached a gentle slope, which brought us to the sandy hill
of Bar Sat Man, half-way to Bir el Abd. From there the road alternately
rises and descends over bare sand ridges, and then passes down a
declivity overgrown with rushes and grass to Bir el Aafin--"the stinking
well," which contains but little water, and that almost putrid. In the
distance we saw several flocks of goats in the charge of Bedouins, who
inhabit the whole tract of country right up to the sea. We also met a
caravan with horses, asses, and mules, which some Kurds were taking to
Cairo, the leader himself--a man advanced in years, wearing a green
turban--riding at their head on a handsome bay.

After reaching a point from which we could see in the distance the Jebel
el Magara, a mountain spur of soft outline, we descended into a hollow.
To our right, between sandy ridges, lay Garif Bir el Abd, an extensive
Melleha, overgrown with rushes and purslane, and containing a small
quantity of rain-water. The action of this water on the soil produces an
excellent salt, which the Bedouins collect