after evaporation at the
beginning of the summer. The smooth firm surface of the salty ground of
the Melleha, with bushes of purslane and _Caucalis_ on either side, is a
welcome change to both man and beast after so much laborious marching
through the bare sand. The purslane, when fresh and green, is much
relished by camels. In the Melleha we saw two laden with straw, with
their Bedouin keepers.

Proceeding on our way, we soon found ourselves again in deep sand, and a
little further came to a small Sepha. The road then rises gently over
another sandy ridge to the funnel-shaped hollow of Bir el Abd--"the
negro's well," where we were to stay the night. The place had also been
chosen by some Bedouins for their encampment. As it was not at all late
when we arrived, I climbed the sandy hill near, in order to make a
sketch of the chain of the Magara, then illuminated by the setting sun
(see illustration); and we afterwards went on to one of the cottages of
the telegraph watchmen, who came forward to give us a friendly welcome.
These men are Arabs, and live there with their families. They are
provided with a small store of wire and a few insulators to enable them
to keep the telegraph in working order. They are placed at intervals all
along the line to Syria, the first station being the one I mentioned at
Katya, each man having a separate section to superintend. This
arrangement is absolutely necessary in consequence of the damage
occasioned by the violent winds which sometimes sweep over the desert.
At Bir el Abd there are two men, each with a separate house, built of
tiles, and a flat roof of the stalks of palm leaves. The lonesome and
uneventful life of these men seems strange enough when one thinks of the
important news constantly flashing over their heads, for the
uninterrupted transmission of which they are chiefly responsible. We
conversed with them for some little time, and gathered that they would
be well contented with their lot but for their anxiety on account of
the frequent danger to which their dwellings are exposed from the
strong, sand-bearing wind, called Hampsin. Little indeed is requisite to
satisfy the frugal and pious Arab. Bidding them farewell, we returned to
the tents and retired to rest soon after our meal.

IV.

FROM BIR EL ABD TO BIR EL MAGARA.

By six o'clock the next morning all were stirring, and at seven we
struck our tents. Ascending from the hollow in which Bir el Abd is
situated,