ch "dead wool" will be badly adapted for felting. "Dead
wool" is nearly as bad as "kempy" wool, in which malformation of fibre
has occurred. In such "kemps," as Dr. Bowman has shown, scales have
disappeared, and the fibre has become, in part or whole, a dense,
non-cellular structure, resisting dye-penetration and felting (see Fig.
14).

[Illustration: FIG. 13.]

[Illustration: FIG. 14.]

One of the physical properties of wool is its hygroscopicity or power of
absorbing moisture. As the very structure of wool and fur fibre would
lead us to suppose, these substances are able to absorb a very
considerable amount of water without appearing damp. If exposed freely
to the air in warm and dry weather, wool retains from 8 to 10 per cent.,
and if in a damp place for some time, it may absorb as much as from 30
to 50 per cent. of water: Wool, fur, or hair that has been washed,
absorbs the most moisture; indeed, the amount of water taken up varies
inversely with the fatty or oily matter present. Hence the less fat the
more moisture. In the washed wool, those fibres in which the cells are
more loosely arranged have the greatest absorbing power for water. No
doubt the moisture finds its way in between the cells of the wool fibre
from which the oil or fat has been removed. But I need hardly remind you
that if wool and fur are capable, according to the circumstances under
which they are placed, of absorbing so much moisture as that indicated,
it becomes (especially in times of pressure and competition) very
important to inquire if it be not worth while to cease paying wool and
fur prices for mere water. This question was answered long ago in the
negative by our Continental neighbours, and in Germany, France, and
Switzerland official conditioning establishments have been founded by
the Governments of those countries for the purpose of testing lots of
purchased wool and silk, etc., for moisture, in order that this moisture
may be deducted from the invoices, and cash paid for real dry wool, etc.
I would point out that if you, as hat manufacturers, desire to enter the
lists with Germany, you must not let her have any advantage you have
not, and it is an advantage to pay for what you know exactly the
composition of, rather than for an article that may contain 7 per cent.
or, for aught you know, 17 per cent. or 30 per cent. of water. There is,
so far as I know, no testing for water in wools and furs in this
country, and certainly no "cond