saw-mills, shipyards,
hospitals, seminary and a hard reputation, Archangel is convex westward,
so that one must go out for some distance to view the whole expanse of
the city from that direction. A mass of trees, a few houses, some large
buildings and churches mainly near the river, with a foreground of
shipping, is the summer view. The winter view is better, the bare trees
and the smaller amount of shipping at the docks permitting a better view
of the general layout of the city, the buildings and the type of houses
used by the population as homes.
Along the main street, Troitsky Prospect, runs a two-track trolley line
connecting the north and south suburbs mentioned in the preceding
paragraph. The cars are light and run very smoothly. They are operated
chiefly by women. Between the main street and the river-front near the
center of the city is the market-place. This covers several blocks and
is full of dingy stalls and alleys occupied by almost hopeless traders
and stocks in trade. As new wooden ware, home-made trinkets, second-hand
clothing and fresh fish can be obtained there the year around, and in
summer the offerings of vegetables are plentiful and tempting, the
market-place never lacks shoppers who carry their paper money down in
the same basket they use to carry back their purchases.
Public buildings are of brick or stone and are colored white, pink, grey
or bright red to give a light or warm effect. Down-town stores are built
some of brick and some of logs. Homes are square in type, with few
exceptions, built of logs, usually of very plain architecture, set
directly against the sidewalks, the yards and gardens being at the side
or rear. For privacy, each man's holdings are surrounded by a seven-foot
fence. Thus the streets present long vistas of wooden ware, partly house
and partly fence, with sometimes over-hanging trees, and with an
inevitable set of doorsteps projecting from each house over part of the
sidewalk. This set of steps is seldom used, for the real entrance to the
home is at the side of the house reached through a gateway in the fence.
The houses in Archangel are usually of two stories, with double windows
packed with cotton or flax to resist the cold. When painted at all, the
houses have been afflicted by their owners with one or more coats of
yellowish-brown stuff familiar to every American farmer who has ever
"primed" a big barn. A few houses have been clap-boarded on the outside
and some
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