The Copts are far more close and reserved and backward than the Arabs,
and they have been so repudiated by Europeans that they are doubly shy of
us. The Europeans resent being called 'Nazranee' as a genteel Hebrew
gentleman may shrink from 'Jew.' But I said boldly, '_Ana Nazraneeh_.
_Alhamdulillah_!' (I am a Nazranee. Praise be to God), and found that it
was much approved by the Muslims as well as the Copts. Curious things
are to be seen here in religion--Muslims praying at the tomb of Mar
Girgis (St. George) and the resting-places of Sittina Mariam and Seyidna
Issa, and miracles, brand-new, of an equally mixed description.

If you have any power over any artists, send them to paint here. No
words can describe either the picturesque beauty of Cairo or the splendid
forms of the people in Upper Egypt, and above all in Nubia. I was in
raptures at seeing how superb an animal man (and woman) really is. My
donkey-girl at Thebes, dressed like a Greek statue--Ward es-Sham (the
Rose of Syria)--was a feast to the eyes; and here, too, what grace and
sweetness, and how good is a drink of Nile water out of an amphora held
to your lips by a woman as graceful as she is kindly. 'May it benefit
thee,' she says, smiling with all her beautiful teeth and eyes.
'_Alhamdulillah_,' you reply; and it is worth thanking God for. The days
of the beauty of Cairo are numbered. The mosques are falling to decay,
the exquisite lattice windows rotting away and replaced by European glass
and jalousies. Only the people and the Government remain unchanged.
Read all the pretty paragraphs about civilisation here, and then say,
Bosh!

If you know anyone coming here and wanting a good servant and dragoman,
recommend my dear Omar Abou el-Halaweh of Alexandria. He has been my
friend and companion, as well as my cook and general servant, now for six
months, and we are very sad at our approaching separation. I am to spend
a day in his house with his young wife at Alexandria, and to eat his
bread. He sadly wants to go with me to Europe and to see my children.
Sally, I think, is almost as fond of the Arabs as I am, and very popular.
My poor ragged crew were for ever calling out 'Yah Sara' for some
assistance or other, hurt fingers or such calamities; and the quantity of
doctoring I did was fearful. Sally was constantly wishing for you to see
all manner of things and to sketch. What a yarn I have made!

May 12, 1863: Mrs. Austin