by the
eye, nor can the proper course be taken except by means of an
experienced pilot standing constantly on the _prow_, and calling out
_starboard_ or _larboard_[249] according to circumstances. Owing to
this, the return voyage does not admit of being described so accurately
as the outward bound. There are two distinct kinds of pilots for this
sea; the one being acquainted with the middle of the gulf, which is the
passage outwards; and the others, called _Rubani_, are for ships
returning from the ocean, and navigating within the shoals. These are
such excellent swimmers, that in many places where they cannot cast
anchor on account of foul ground, they will swim under water and fix the
gallies within the shoals, and will often even fasten the prows under
water, according to the nature of the place[250].

[Footnote 248: From Suez to the Straits of _Bab-al-Mandub_, the direct
distance is about 1590 statute English miles, or 1200 geographical
miles, 60 to the degree. From the Straits to _Cape Guardafu_ is about
433 English miles farther, or 375 geographical: Making in all 1825 of
the former and 1575 of the latter. The direction is S.S.E.--E.]

[Footnote 249: In the original Italian, _Orza_ and _Poggia_, being the
names of the ropes at the yard-arms which are hauled when these words
are pronounced.--Astl. I. 101. b.]

[Footnote 250: The expression in the text is not very obvious, but seems
to indicate that these _Rubani_ are such excellent divers as to be able
to fasten ropes or hausers to the rocks below water.--E.]

On the 28th. of November 1539, the Christians belonging to the Venetian
gallies left Suez, and arrived at Cairo on the 1st of December, where
they were lodged in the same house that they had formerly occupied. Each
of them was allowed half a _maidan_ daily for subsistence, which is
equal to about twopence of Venice. They here suffered great affliction
and fatigue, as whatever laborious work was to be performed was devolved
upon them. Clearing out the water-cisterns, levelling hills, putting
gardens in order, new buildings, and such like, all fell to their share.
On the 25th of March 1540, many of the Christians went from Cairo with a
guard of Turks to a hill or mount two miles from the Nile, which seemed
to have been a burying-place like the _Campo Santo_, where every year,
on the Friday before our _Lady of August_[251], a vast number of people
assemble to see dead bodies rise out of the ground. This resur