tatesman-author-orator gave me no guide to correct form
or English social customs. Instead I grew so interested in the history
of his work in England and France and in his inspiring achievement in
obtaining recognition and credit for the United States that dinner time
arrived before I realized I had not discovered what language was spoken
at court, nor what one talked about, nor if one talked at all.

Tom roared when I made my confession. With his boyish good humor he
promised to answer all my questions on board ship.

So, without a care in those delicious days that followed, I wandered
down Sixth Avenue to New York's then most correct shops, buying clothes
and clothes and clothes. I bought practical and impractical gifts for
the twins back in Wisconsin and for all the family and those good
friends who had helped me through Madison.

The week before we sailed my husband said, out of a clear sky: "Be sure
you have the right clothes, Mary. The English are a conservative lot."
Suddenly I was conscious again that I did not know the essential things
the wife of a diplomat ought to know--what to wear and when, a million
and one tremendous social trifles.

The moment our magnificent liner left the dock I heaved a sigh of
relief. Tom would be mine for two whole weeks, and all the questions I
had saved up would be answered. That evening he announced: "We don't
dress for dinner the first night out."

"Dress for dinner?" I asked. "What do you mean?"

And then very gently he gave me my first lesson. I had never seen
anything bigger than a ferry-boat. How could I guess that even on an
ocean liner we did not leave formality behind? The "party dresses",
so carefully selected, the long, rich velvet cape I had thought
outrageously extravagant, and the satin slippers and the suede--I had
packed them all carefully in the trunk and sent them to the hold of the
ship. But, with the aid of a little cash, the steward finally produced
my treasure trunk, and thereafter I dressed for dinner.

The two weeks I had expected my husband to give me held no quiet hours.
There is no such thing, except when one is seasick, as being alone
aboard a ship. Tom was popular, good at cards and deck games, always
ready to play. And the fourth day out I was too ill to worry about the
customs at the Court of St. James.

It was not until just before we reached England that I began to feel
myself again. I stood on deck, thrilled with the tall sh