od deal of shale in with the sandstone.
We had a good opportunity to see this, since the railroad connecting
Port Hawkesbury with Sidney is new, having started running only last
March, and hence the cuts furnished admirable fields in which to
examine the geology. The road is surveyed and bed made along the Cape
Breton shore of the Gut nearly to the northern end, and when completed
will be a delightful ride. I think the Gut for 10 miles north of Port
Hawkesbury resembles the Hudson just by the Palisades. It is grander
than Eggemoggin Reach and on a far larger scale than Somes' Sound. At
the northern end it broadens and becomes just a magnificent waterway,
without the grand scenery. We were becalmed nearly all day in George's
Bay, at one time getting pretty near Antigonish, but got a breeze
towards evening. We tried fishing several times but could not get a
bite though several fishermen were in sight and trawls innumerable. We
passed one fisherman, a fine three-master, just as we were coming out
of the Gut from Frenchman's Bay, going home, but with very little
fish.
I got the captain to call me about 4, Wednesday morning, to fish, but
got none. We were then off North Cape, having had a good breeze all
night. The wind was light all day, but towards the latter part of the
afternoon commenced to blow from the southeast, kicking up a nasty sea
very soon. We double reefed the mainsail reefed the foresail and
hauled the flying jib down. About 8 P.M. we laid to with the jib
hauled down, on the starboard tack. The wind had backed to the east
about four points and was blowing a gale. About 12 M. it suddenly
dropped, a flat calm, leaving a tremendous sea running from the
southeast, combined with a smaller one from the east. Our motions,
jumps, rolls and pitches, can be better imagined than described. It
seemed at times that our bow and our stern were where the mastheads
usually are, and our rails were frequently rolled under.
Rice and Hunt stood one watch, Cary and I the second, and here Rice,
though a good sailor and an experienced yachtsman, finally succumbed.
We hauled everything down with infinite difficulty, owing to the
violent motion, and made it fast, then let her roll and pitch to her
heart's content. A sorrier looking place than our wardroom, and a
sicker set of fellows it would be hard to find. The dishes had some
play in the racks, and kept up an infernal racket that I tried in
every way to stop and could not. To
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