d of the
lake, and at the time of our visit was far pleasanter and less arctic
for bathing than the water off any point of the Maine coast. About
twenty miles from the Narrows a string of islands, rugged and barren,
but beautiful for their very desolation, as is true of so much of
Labrador, nearly block the way, but we found the channels deep and
clear, and St. John's towering peak makes an excellent guide to the
most direct passage.

One night was spent under way, floating quietly on the lake, so
delightfully motionless after the restless movements of Atlantic seas.
A calm and bright day following, during which the one pleasant swim in
Labrador waters was taken by two of us, was varied by thunder squalls
and ended in fog and drizzle, causing us to anchor off the abrupt
break in the continuous ridge along the northern shore, made by the
Muligatawney River. Although in an insecure and exposed anchorage, yet
the fact that we were in an inclosed lake gave a sense of security to
the less experienced, that the snug and rocky harbors to which we had
become accustomed, usually failed to give on account of the roaring of
the surf a few hundred yards away, on the other side of the narrow
barrier that protected the rocky basin.

The following day was bright and showery by turns, but the heart's
wish of our Grand River men was granted, and while the schooner lay
off the shoals at the mouth of the river they were to make famous,
they started as will be described, and the rest of the expedition
turned towards North West River, hoping they, too, could now get down
to their real work.

The noble little vessel was reluctant to leave any of her freight in
so desolate a place, in such frail boats as the Rushtons seemed, and
in the calm between the thunder squalls, several times turned towards
them, as they energetically pushed up the river's mouth, and seemed to
call them back as she heavily flapped her white sails. They kept
steadily on, however, while the Julia, bowing to a power stronger than
herself, and to a fresh puff from the rapidly rising thunder heads,
speedily reached North West River.

North West River is a sportsman's paradise. Here we found the only
real summer weather of the trip, the thermometer reaching 76 deg. F. on
two days in succession, and thunder storms occurring regularly every
afternoon. Our gunners and fishermen were tempted off on a long trip.
One party planning to be away two or three days, but returning