ngs that we hardly thought of the strangeness of
it, within a few yards of a village of pure Eskimo, living in all
their primitive customs and in their own land.

A few rods behind the mission are the gardens, cut up into small
squares by strong board fences to prevent the soil from blowing away,
each with a tarpaulin near by to spread over it at night. In this
laborious way potatoes, cabbages and turnips are raised. In a large
hothouse the missionaries raise tomatoes, lettuce, and also flowers,
but for everything else, except fish, game and ice, they have to
depend on the yearly visit of the Moravian mission ship. She left for
Nain just the day before we reached Hopedale, and after unloading
supplies, etc., there, she proceeds north, collecting furs and fish
until loaded, and then goes to London.

About fifty Eskimos were measured and collections made of their
clothing, implements of war and chase and household utensils, which
are the best of our collections, for the World's Fair and the Bowdoin
museums.

After spending these five pleasant and profitable days at Hopedale,
and regretfully looking out by Cape Harrigan, to Nain, whose gardens
are the seventh wonder of Labrador, through which, reports say, one
can walk for two miles, and whose missionaries, warned of our coming,
were making ready to give us a warm reception; and near it Paul's
Island, on which was so much of interest to our party; all this we
thought of mournfully as our vessel's head was pointed southward and
we sped along, reluctant on this account, and yet eager to hear of the
success of our boldest undertaking, the Grand River exploration party.

At Aillik, where there is an abandoned Hudson Bay Co.'s post, we
measured a few more Eskimo, obtained a kyak, which a day or two later
nearly became a coffin to one of our party, and tried a trout stream
that proved the best we found in Labrador. In about an hour, three of
our party caught over eighty magnificent trout, and, naturally,
returned much elated.

The next day we poked the Julia's inquisitive nose into one or two
so-called but misnamed harbors that afforded very little shelter, and
had a threatening and deserted look which, although the characteristic
of the Labrador shore in general, has never been noticeable in the
harbors we have visited. Many of them are very small, and in some it
is necessary to lay quite close to the rocks, but yet we have had no
trouble from the extremely deep water tha