n the confiscation of this monastery, several magnificent pictures
disappeared, a few of which have since been placed in the cathedral. Two
alabaster monuments, belonging to the family of Medina Caeli, were also
removed; they are placed in a church at present under repair. They are
erect, and fit into the wall; measuring about forty feet in height.
Their upper portion is adorned with several well-executed small statues.
The other convent--that dedicated to S. Geronimo, is situated on the
opposite side of the river, about a mile higher up. It is not so
beautiful as the Cartuja, but on a grander scale. The principal court is
magnificent; it is surrounded with upper and lower arcades, respectively
of the Ionic and Doric orders: the apartments and church are of
corresponding extent; but have either been deprived of their ornaments,
or were originally but sparingly decorated. A ci-devant governor of
Seville--a general officer, very distinguished as a linguist, has turned
schoolmaster, and taken up his abode here. The day of my visit happened
to be the general's birthday, and a scene of much festivity presented
itself. The schoolmaster's successor in his former post at Seville, had
arrived, attended by the band of a cavalry regiment; and the great court
having been converted into a ball-room, the marble arcades were made to
ring with the thrilling cadences of the hautbois and clarionette--by way
of a fitting afterpiece to the tragic chants of former days.
The relatives and friends of the students were present, so that the
youthful dancers were well-provided with partners. The performances were
French quadrilles, English hornpipes, German waltzes, Russian mazurkas,
and Spanish fandangos. I had arrived too late for the first part of the
entertainment, which consisted of a bull-fight, for which a temporary
arena had been enclosed. The bulls were what are called _novillos_--that
is, scarcely more than calves; as the full-grown animals would have been
more than a match for their juvenile antagonists.
The ruins of the Roman city of Italica, to which I have already alluded,
are situated four miles from Seville in ascending the river--and on the
opposite bank. The whole town is underground, with the exception of a
few houses in the part in which excavations have been made, and of the
amphitheatre which occupies an eminence. No notice was taken in modern
times of the existence of this buried town, until towards the end of the
last
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