nted likewise four Rembrandts, and
two of Rubens. Among the other private collections, that of the Alcalde
Don Pedro Garcia is one of the richest; it contains a Santa Barbara of
Cano, an exquisite picture. A Saint Joseph by Murillo, in the collection
of the French Consul (a native of Seville) is admirable.
In most of the churches there is sufficient of this sort of attraction
to make them worth a visit. In the convents nothing is left; in fact
they no longer exist as convents. There may be one or two remaining in
Seville, but I did not hear of them. The monastery of Jeronimites, and
the Chartreuse--both situated in the environs--were the most
considerable religious establishments of Seville. They are converted,
one into a school, and the other into a porcelain manufactory. This
last, the Chartreuse, contains in its church and refectory, plentiful
traces of its former magnificence. An Englishman has purchased the
monastery with three or four acres of ground, containing the immediate
dependencies; and he is occupied with the labours which necessarily
precede its appearance in its new character, replacing the butteries,
kitchens, storehouses, and cells, by rows of pudding-shaped
baking-houses.
He has, however, spared the chapel, which is to continue in its former
state. All the stalls, the altar, and other immoveable furniture, remain
as he found them. The pictures and statues had of course been
previously removed. The woodwork is inimitable--the best I have seen in
Spain; it would be impossible in painting to represent with more
delicacy, the very texture of the drapery, the very veins of the hands,
and hair of the beards--of figures of a quarter the natural dimensions.
You are filled with astonishment, that the infinite patience necessary
for this mechanical labour should have accompanied the genius which
conceived and executed the incomparable figures and heads. The
refectory, of which the ceiling is the principal ornament, is to be the
great show-room for the display of the china. The fortunate manufacturer
inhabits, with his family, the prior's residence--one of the most
elegant habitations in the world: surrounding a court, which contains of
course its white marble fountain and colonnades: and he is in treaty for
the purchase of the orange-grove, the park of the monastery. This
pleasure-ground is ornamented here and there with Kiosks, from which are
obtained views of Seville, and the intervening Guadalquivir.
O
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