ice,
an uninterrupted succession of airs, called _seguidillas_, from the
dance to which they are adapted. On the gallery, which adjoins the
organ-loft of each church, are established five or six muscular youths,
selected for their untiring activity. They are provided each with a
tambourine, and their duty consists in drawing from it as much, and as
varied sound as it will render without coming to pieces. With this view
they enter upon the amiable contest, and try, during three or four
hours, which of their number, employing hands, knees, feet, and elbows
in succession, can produce the most racking intonations. On the pavement
immediately below, there is generally a group, composed of the friends
of the performers, as may be discerned from the smiles of intelligence
directed upwards and downwards. Some of these appear, from the animated
signs of approbation and encouragement, with which they reward each more
than usually violent concussion, to be backers of favourite heroes.
During all this time one or two priests are engaged before the altar in
the performance of a series of noiseless ceremonies; and the pavement of
the body of the church is pressed by the knees of a dense crowd of
devotees.

The propensity to robbery and assassination, attributed by several
tourists to the population of this country, has been much exaggerated.
The imagination of the stranger is usually so worked upon by these
accounts, as to induce him never to set foot outside the walls of
whatever city he inhabits, without being well armed. As far as regards
the environs of Seville, this precaution is superfluous. They may be
traversed in all directions, at all events within walking distance, or
to the extent of a moderate ride, without risk. Far from exercising
violence, the peasants never fail, in passing, to greet the stranger
with a respectful salutation. But I cannot be guarantee for other towns
or environs which I have not visited. It is certain that equal security
does not exist nearer the coast, on the frequented roads which
communicate between San Lucar, Xeres, and Cadiz; nor in the opposite
direction, throughout the mountain passes of the Sierra Morena. But this
state of things is far from being universal.

I would much prefer passing a night on a country road in the
neighbourhood of Seville, to threading the maze of streets, which form
the south-eastern portion of the town, mentioned above as containing the
greater number of the residenc