ts on the
passages of this emperor's history, the less one is surprised at his
resolution to abdicate. He gave in this a proof of his appreciation of
his real character, which undoubtedly fitted him rather for a life of
ease and retirement, than for the arduous duties of supreme power.

LETTER XII.

ARAB MONUMENTS. PICTURES. THE PRINCESS GALIANA. ENVIRONS.

Toledo.

Returning along the edge of the cliff, a very short space separates the
extreme walls of the ruined monastery of Ferdinand and Isabella, from an
edifice of much greater antiquity, although not yet a ruin. Its exterior
as you approach, is more than simple. It is not even a neatly
constructed building; but such a pile of rough looking mud and stone,
as, on the continent, announces sometimes a barn, or granary of a
farming establishment _mal monte._ A high central portion runs from end
to end, from either side of which, at about four-fifths of its height,
project lower roofs of brownish-red tiles. The old square rotten door is
in exact keeping with all this exterior, and contributes its share to
the surprise experienced on entering, when you discover, on a level with
the eye, distributed over a spacious quadrangular area, a forest of
elaborately carved capitals, surmounting octagon-shaped pillars, and
supporting innumerable horse-shoe arches, scattered in apparent
confusion. All these as you advance down a flight of steps, fall into
rank, and you speedily find yourself in the centre of an oriental temple
in all its symmetry.

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF SANTA MARIA LA BLANCA, TOLEDO.]

The principal light entering from the western extremity, you do not at
first perceive that three of the five naves terminate at the opposite
end, by half domes of more modern invention. These have since been
almost built out, and do not form a part of the general view,--not in
consequence of a decree of a committee of fine arts, but for the
convenience of the intendant of the province, who selected the edifice,
as long as it remained sufficiently weather-proof for such a purpose,
for a magazine of government stores. There is no record of the antiquity
of this church, supposed to be the most ancient in Toledo: at all
events, it is the most ancient of those constructed by the Arabs. It was
originally a synagogue, and received the above mentioned half cupolas on
its conversion to a Catholic church; since which period it has been
known by its present title of Santa Mari