om tower to tower. Over this there is a
circular window, surrounded with armorial escutcheons, and the remainder
of the facade is covered with groups of figures in compartments, up to
the summit, a height of about a hundred and thirty feet, where there is
a pediment ornamented with an immense armorial shield and lions rampant
as supporters, and the whole is surmounted by a cross.

The church was erected by the celebrated Torquemada, who was a monk in
the establishment. Dona Maria, Queen of Sancho the Fourth, although
mentioned as the founder of the monastery, only completed a small
portion of the edifice compared to what was subsequently added. A
handsome tomb by Pompeyo Leoni, is seen in the church. It is that of Don
Francisco de Sandoval, Duke of Lerma, and his wife. The woodwork of the
stalls is by Ferrara. It is adorned with fluted Doric columns, and is
composed of walnut, ebony, box and cedar. The superb facade of this
church and its sumptuous tracery, had well nigh been the cause of a
misunderstanding between the representative of the Spanish Government
and myself. To obtain admission to the interior of the building, which I
was told had become national property, I addressed my humble request in
writing to the _gefe politico_, or governor of the province, resident at
Valladolid. I left the note at his official residence, and was
requested to return at an hour appointed, when I was to obtain an
audience. The functions of a _gefe politico_ answer to those of no
provincial functionary in England, or any other constitutional state--he
has more authority even than a Prefet in France. He represents the
monarchical power, with this difference, that he is uncontrolled by
parliament within the limits of his province. Although not charged with
the military administration, he can direct and dispose of the armed
force; besides being a sort of local home minister and police
magistrate; in fact, the factotum or _ame damnee_ of the Cromwell of the
moment, with whom he is in direct and constant communication on the
affairs of his district.

I was at Valladolid during the regency of Espartero, when the cue given
to these functionaries, relative to the _surveillance_ of foreigners was
very anti-French, and favourable to England. Now in the eyes of a
_gens-d'armes_ every one is a thief until he can bring proof to the
contrary, just as by the jurisprudence of certain continental countries,
every accused is presumed criminal--just as