. They are traceable to a length
of more than four hundred yards. The width is two hundred and ninety
feet within the building, at the present elevation of the ground, and
three hundred and twenty feet on the outside, which appears to have
consisted of a series of arches. There are also remains of an
amphitheatre adjoining the semicircular end of the stadium.
There being no indication of the Romans having at any period planted any
considerable establishment at Toledo, in fact no author but Livy having
noticed the place, and he but slightly; the antiquaries have sought for
the origin of these monuments among Gothic traditions; and it is
believed by them, that they were erected during the early part of the
sixth century, by Theudio, a Gothic King, who manifested much attachment
to Roman customs.
LETTER XIII.
CASTLES OF ALMONACID, GUADAMUR, MONTALBAN, AND ESCALONA. TORRIJOS.
Toledo.
I met this morning with an entertaining scene, in a quarter in which it
might be the least looked for. The archiepiscopal palace contains an
excellent library, which has always been open to the public. Although
the revenues of the see are now withdrawn, and the palace is vacant, the
books remain on the shelves, and the head librarian, a _racionero_ of
the cathedral, has the good nature to throw open the rooms from eleven
to twelve, on all days of labour, (as those are called on which no saint
is celebrated,) although he no longer enjoys a salary, nor the means of
providing a single attendant to see to what passes in the different
apartments.
I was occupied this morning in the _racionero's_ room, when he received
a visit from two French tourists, both persons of notoriety; one being
a member of the chamber of deputies, and one of the leaders of the
republican party; and the other, I believe, also in the chamber, but
principally known as a writer of political pamphlets, in which the
French reigning family, and the powers that be are lashed with
unwearying severity. The first mentioned personage commenced the
conversation in Spanish, which the other did not speak: but on hearing
the librarian make an observation in French, the pamphleteer took up the
argument in his own language, and nearly in the following terms.
"As this gentleman understands French, I will explain to him the object
of my tour," and addressing himself to the Spaniard, he continued--"I
find it a relief, in the midst of my arduous political duties, to make
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