cloister walls, where it forms a sort of
frieze, in a line with the capitals of the semi-columns. The inhabited
part of the establishment is in a state of complete ruin, having been
destroyed by the French during the Peninsular War. The cloisters are,
likewise, in a semi-ruinous state: the part best preserved being the
church; although that was not entirely spared, as may be supposed from
its having been used as cavalry stables.

The choice of a situation for the erection of this convent was perfect
in the then flourishing state of Toledo; and, even now, its picturesque
position lends a charm to the melancholy and deserted remains still
visible of its grandeur and beauty. It stands on the brow of the cliff,
commanding the termination of the chasm already described as commencing
at the bridge of Alcantara. It commands, therefore, the ruins of
Roderick's palace, placed a few hundred yards further on, and on a lower
level; still lower the picturesque bridge of St. Martin, striding to
the opposite cliff, over arches of ninety feet elevation, and the lovely
_vega_ which stretches to the west.

[Illustration: CHURCH OF SAN JUAN DE LOS REYES.]

This monastery was one of the most favoured amongst the numerous royal
endowments of that period. It is said that its foundation was the result
of a vow pronounced by Ferdinand and the Queen before the taking of
Granada. In addition to the scale of magnificence adopted throughout the
entire plan, the royal founders, on its completion, bestowed a highly
venerated donation--the collection of chains taken from the limbs of the
Christian captives, rescued by them from the dungeons of the Alhambra.
They are suspended on the outside walls of the two sides of the
north-eastern angle of the church, and are made to form a frieze, being
placed in couples crossing each other at an acute angle; while those
that remained are suspended vertically in rows by fours or fives, in the
intervals of the pilastres.

The interior of the church is still sufficiently entire to give some
idea of its original splendour. Its dimensions are rather more than two
hundred feet in length, by eighty in width, and as many in
height--excepting over the intersection of the nave and transept, where
the ceiling rises to a hundred and eight feet. These dimensions are
exclusive of three recesses on either side, forming chapels open to the
nave, there being no lateral naves or aisles. The style of the whole is
very ornament