odging at the Hotel of Justice and
Mercy (_Jeu-y-Ting_). The house was large and recently built. With the
exception of a solid floor of grey tiles, the whole construction was of
wood. The host received us with that courtesy and attention which are
always displayed when people desire to give a character to a new
establishment; and, besides, the man having a most unprepossessing
aspect, was anxious, probably, by his amiability of manners, to redeem
his ugliness of feature; his eyes, which squinted horribly, were always
turned away from the person whom he was addressing. However, if the
organ of sight was defective, the organ of speech bad marvellous
elasticity. In his quality of an old soldier, he had seen much, heard
much, and what is more, he remembered much; he was acquainted with all
countries, and had had to do with all sorts of men. His loquacity was
far from being troublesome to us: he gave us details of every kind, as to
the places, great and small, which we had to visit before our arrival at
Koukou-Noor. That part of Tartary was well known to him; for, in the
military part of his career, he had served against the Si-Fan. The day
after our arrival he brought us, early in the morning, a large scroll, on
which were written, in order, the names of the towns, villages, hamlets,
and places that we had to pass in the province of Kan-Sou; and then he
proceeded to give us a description of the localities with so much
enthusiasm, so much gesticulation, and in such a loud key, that he made
our heads turn.

The time which was not absorbed in long interviews, partly compulsory,
partly voluntary, with our host, was occupied in visiting the town.
Che-Tsui-Dze is built in the corner of an angle, formed on one side by
the Alechan mountains, and on the other by the Yellow River. On its
eastern bank the Hoang-Ho is bordered by dark hills, wherein are abundant
coal mines, which the inhabitants work with great activity, and whence
they derive their chief wealth. The suburbs of the town are occupied by
great potteries, where you observe colossal urns, used in families as
reservoirs of water, and large stoves of admirable construction, and a
large collection of vases of all shapes and sizes. There is in the
province of Kan-Sou a large trade in this pottery.

At Che-Tsui-Dze, provisions are abundant, varied, and of astonishingly
moderate price. Nowhere, perhaps, can a person live so economically. At
every hour of the day an