few swine, raking up the rubbish.
The inhabitants of this large city were in a state of utter misery. The
greater number of them were covered with dirty rags. Their pale visages,
haggard and thin, showed that they were often without the necessaries of
life. Yet Ning-Hia was once a royal town, and, doubtless, opulent and
flourishing.

In the tenth century, a prince of Tartar race, a native of Tou-Pa, at
present under the dominion of the Si-Fan, having induced a few hordes to
follow him, came, and formed, despite the Chinese, a small state not far
from the banks of the Yellow River. He chose for his capital,
Hia-Tcheou, which afterwards came to be called Ning-Hia. It was from
this town, that this new kingdom was called Hia. It was in a very
flourishing state for more than two centuries; but in 1227, it was
involved in the common ruin, by the victories of Tchinggiskhan, the
founder of the Mongol dynasty. At present Ning-Hia is one of the towns
of the first class in the province of Kan-Sou.

On quitting Ning-Hia, you enter upon a magnificent road, almost
throughout bordered by willows and jujube trees. At intervals, you find
small inns, where the traveller can rest and refresh himself at small
expense. He can buy there tea, hard eggs, beans fried in oil, cakes, and
fruit preserved in sugar or salt.

This day's journey was one of absolute recreation. Our camels, which had
never travelled except in the deserts of Tartary, seemed thoroughly
sensible to the charms of civilization; they turned their heads
majestically right and left, observing, with manifest interest, all that
presented itself on the way, men and things. They were not, however, so
wholly absorbed in the investigations of the industry and manners of
China as to withdraw their attention altogether from its natural
productions. The willows, especially, attracted their interest; and when
at all within their reach, they did not fail to pluck the tender
branches, which they masticated with entire satisfaction. Sometimes,
also, expanding their long necks, they would smell the various delicacies
displayed over the inn doors, a circumstance which, of course, elicited
vehement protests from the innkeepers and other persons concerned. The
Chinese were not less struck with our camels, than our camels were with
China. The people collected from all directions to see the caravan pass,
and ranged themselves on each side of the road; taking care, however, not
t