an
agitation, a tumult to which we were quite unused amid the silent
solitude of the desert; and it was perhaps on account of its novelty that
this confusion was, to us, full of entertainment. It was amusing to see
the half-tamed horses pushing and struggling to arrive first at the well;
then, instead of drinking in peace, biting, quarrelling, and even leaving
the water in order to pursue each other on the plain. The scene was
especially entertaining and picturesque, when an enormous camel came
forward, spreading alarm round the well, and driving away the vulgar herd
by its despotic presence.

There were four Mongol shepherds; while two of them, armed with a long
rod, ran about trying to effect a little order among the flocks, the two
others drew the water in a manner which greatly excited our surprise.
First, the utensil they used by way of pail, appeared to us very
remarkable; it was the entire skin of a goat, solidly fastened at the
four feet, the only opening being at the neck. A hoop kept this orifice
open; a long, strong rope of camel's hair was fastened at one end to the
wooden handle that crossed the diameter of the orifice, and at the other
end to the saddle of the horse ridden by one of the Tartars, who, when
the skin was filled rode off, and thus hauled up the bucket to the edge
of the well, where it was received by another man, who emptied its
contents into the troughs.

The well was of astonishing depth; the rope used to raise the bucket
seemed more than 200 feet long. Instead of running in a pulley, it went
right over a large stone, in which a large groove was already made by the
constant friction. Although the drawing up of the water was performed
with great activity, it was nearly dark before all the flock had been
watered; we then brought our five animals to participate in the general
banquet, and the Tartars had the complaisance to draw water also for us;
otherwise, it is probable we should never have got it, but have been
obliged to suffer thirst beside an abundant well.

These Tartars did not seem contented, like those we had met with in the
other parts of Mongolia; we saw they were very depressed at being obliged
to spend their lives in such a barren country, where pasturage is so very
scarce and water still rarer. They talked to us of the Mongol kingdoms
through which we had passed, and where it was so easy, so agreeable
indeed, to feed animals. "Oh, how happy are the inhabitants of these