ts were engaged
in the whiting fishery. The fish are not only sold in Plymouth and the
neighbouring towns, but are sent up in large quantities to the London
market.
Returning on board, we stood northward, that we might obtain a view of
the coast as we sailed along. Dick and I remained on deck all the
morning. At last we sighted Looe, the first town we had seen on the
Cornish coast. Looe stands at the mouth of a valley, at the bottom of
which runs a stream. It consists of East and West Looe--romantic
foreign-looking places. The houses are grouped together irregularly,
with whitewashed walls, stairs outside, green roofs and grey gables,
with myrtles, geraniums, and other plants of a warm climate flourishing
in their midst. West Looe is inhabited chiefly by fishermen, their
humble cottages being scattered about without any respect to order.
However, we obtained but a distant view of it.
As the wind freshened up a little we stood on towards Fowey, passing
Looe Island and Talland Point. Fowey is a place of far more importance
than Looe, although much of its ancient glory has departed. The town
rises above the quay, and consists of a number of narrow, crooked
streets; and it has a quiet old market-house, a fine tower, and a
building called the _Place_ House. The town owes much to a patriotic
gentleman, Joseph Treffry, by whose means it has of late years been
greatly improved.
Once upon a time, when Liverpool was a mere fishing-village, Fowey sent
forth a large fleet to aid King Edward--no less than forty-seven ships,
with seven hundred and seventy mariners, swelled the king's fleet.
Often, too, the men of Fowey beat back their French invaders; indeed,
the Place House was built as a fortress.
On going out of Fowey we passed a number of coasters loaded with china
clay, which is found in large quantities near this town. Arsenic also
is found in many of the Cornish mines. Persons employed in obtaining it
suffer greatly from its poisonous fumes.
The flashing light of Saint Anthony's Point burst forth when we were
about three miles from the entrance of Falmouth Harbour, and enabled us,
with the assistance of the green fixed light on the breakwater, to take
up a safe berth inside. We had heard much of the beauty of Falmouth,
and expected next morning to be delighted with its appearance.
"Well, I really think I shall make a very good sailor," said Dick, as we
sat at supper, while the vessel lay at anchor in
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