masses of foam. Four men belong to the lighthouse,
three always remain in it, and one goes on leave every twenty-eight
days, when the weather permits; but this, during the winter season, is
very often impossible; and sometimes for weeks together the man on shore
cannot get off.
During a storm, some years ago, so furious were the waves, that the
lantern was broken in, and the keepers fully believed that the whole
structure would be washed away. We heard of an inspector who had
visited the rock during fine weather, and who had begun to find great
fault with the large stock of provisions kept in the storehouse. Before
the cutter which brought him could return, a heavy gale sprang up, and
he himself was kept a prisoner for nine weeks, after which the
lighthouse-keepers heard no more complaints as to the quantity of food
kept in store.
The bright light, which burst forth from the top of the white tower,
warned us to beat a retreat.
Not far from Land's End we found another inn, which looked much out of
place in that wild region. Dick declared that it should be called "The
firster and laster inn in England," it having been built some time after
the one we had previously passed. As it was too late to return to
Penzance that evening, we took advantage of it, and put up there for the
night, that we might visit some mines and other interesting spots in the
neighbourhood.
The first thing in the morning we set off to visit the Botallack mine,
the machinery of which we could see perched among crags that looked
almost inaccessible. We had not time to go into the mine, which is
carried far under the ocean. In some places there is not more than six
or eight feet between the roof of the galleries and the water. Once the
sea broke into it; but the hole was plugged and the water pumped out.
On another occasion, a party of miners discovered a magnificent piece of
ore little more than three feet below the ocean. The treasure tempted
them to risk their lives to obtain it. They cut it out, and
successfully filled up the hole. It is said that so terrific is the
noise during heavy weather, when the waves dash in on the shore, and
roll the pebbles backwards and forwards, that even the bold miners are
compelled to rush out, unable to endure the uproar. The scene was most
extraordinary. Vast pumps appeared amid the cliffs, unceasingly drawing
up water, which rushed in a red torrent into the sea. Steam and smoke
were spitting
|