that slopes upwards from the silk mill, in a N. direction, is called the
Abbey Orchard, and on the summit of the slope stands the great Abbey of
St. Alban.

As the ancient Roman city--the _Verulamium_ of Antoninus--stood some
distance to the W., a brief account of it will be found under the
heading Verulam. The history of St. Albans itself commences with the
death of Alban, the proto-martyr of Britain, who was flogged with rods
and beheaded by the Romans for having sheltered the priest Amphibalus,
connived at his escape, and adopted his faith (_circa_ 285-305; the
date is very uncertain). During the fifth century the Saxons captured
and destroyed Verulam and built a new town on the hill some distance E.
This they named _Watlingceaster_ (the town on Watling Street), but when
(793) Offa built a monastery to the memory of Alban on Holmhurst Hill,
the traditionary site of the martyrdom, the town itself became known as
St. Albans. Gildas, Bede and other old authorities agree that an earlier
church stood on this spot; they state, indeed, that it was built soon
after the death of St. Alban.

The plan of the city is, like the Abbey, cruciform, four old high-roads
meeting together near the Clock Tower, N.W. from Dunstable, S.W. from
Watford, S.E. from London, N.E. from Wheathampstead. The latter unites
with the road from Harpenden and Luton at The Cricketers, 1/4 mile N.W.
from St. Peter's Church. The four roads, on entering the city, are
respectively called Verulam Road, Holywell Hill, London Road and St.
Peter's Street; one of the oldest thoroughfares, however, is that called
Fishpool Street, which runs from near the W. end of the Abbey to the
flour mill on the Ver. Quite recently several of the oldest houses in
the neighbourhood were in this street; but some have now been pulled
down.

[Illustration: THE FIGHTING COCKS, ST. ALBAN'S
_The oldest Inn in England_]

We will enter the city from the direction of St. Stephens. Crossing the
bridge over the Ver, we turn left by the Duke of Marlborough, pass
through the gate near the river side and keeping the cress-beds on
the left reach the silk mill. Turning right we ascend the hill W. of the
Abbey orchard, obtaining meanwhile a fine view of the stately W. front
of the Abbey itself, as reconstructed by Lord Grimthorpe. Our way into
the city lies through the old, partially ivy-clad _Gate House_, a relic
of the Benedictine Monastery; note the Perp. pointed arch and