ime on roots and honey. About two o'clock
in the morning of the 3d we were aroused by two officers and a company
of soldiers, who had been sent with the materials for a civilized
breakfast and a "masheela" to bring me to Tete. (Commandant's house:
lat. 16d 9' 3" S., long. 33d 28' E.) My companions thought that we were
captured by the armed men, and called me in alarm. When I understood
the errand on which they had come, and had partaken of a good breakfast,
though I had just before been too tired to sleep, all my fatigue
vanished. It was the most refreshing breakfast I ever partook of, and
I walked the last eight miles without the least feeling of weariness,
although the path was so rough that one of the officers remarked to
me, "This is enough to tear a man's life out of him." The pleasure
experienced in partaking of that breakfast was only equaled by the
enjoyment of Mr. Gabriel's bed on my arrival at Loanda. It was also
enhanced by the news that Sebastopol had fallen and the war was
finished.

Note.--Having neglected, in referring to the footprints of the
rhinoceros,
to mention what may be interesting to naturalists, I add it here
in a note;
that wherever the footprints are seen, there are also marks of the
animal
having plowed up the ground and bushes with his horn. This has
been supposed
to indicate that he is subject to "fits of ungovernable rage";
but, when seen, he appears rather to be rejoicing in his strength.
He acts as a bull sometimes does when he gores the earth with his
horns.
The rhinoceros, in addition to this, stands on a clump of bushes,
bends his back down, and scrapes the ground with his feet,
throwing it out backward, as if to stretch and clean his toes,
in the same way that a dog may be seen to do on a little grass:
this is certainly not rage.

Chapter 31.

Kind Reception from the Commandant--His Generosity to my Men--The
Village of Tete--The Population--Distilled Spirits--The Fort--Cause
of the Decadence of Portuguese Power--Former Trade--Slaves employed
in Gold-washing--Slave-trade drained the Country of Laborers--The
Rebel Nyaude's Stockade--He burns Tete--Kisaka's Revolt and
Ravages--Extensive Field of Sugar-cane--The Commandant's good
Reputation among the Natives--Providential Guidance--Seams of Coal--A
hot Spring--Picturesque Country--Water-carriage to the Coal-fields--
Workmen's Wages--Expor