ayed the funeral until
unmistakable symptoms of dissolution occurred. She was a widow, only
twenty-two years of age, and had been ten years in Africa. I attended
the funeral in the evening, and was struck by the custom of the country.
A number of slaves preceded us, and fired off many rounds of gunpowder
in front of the body. When a person of much popularity is buried, all
the surrounding chiefs send deputations to fire over the grave. On one
occasion at Tete, more than thirty barrels of gunpowder were expended.
Early in the morning of the 21st the slaves of the deceased lady's
brother went round the village making a lamentation, and drums were
beaten all day, as they are at such times among the heathen.

The commandant provided for the journey most abundantly, and gave orders
to Lieutenant Miranda that I should not be allowed to pay for any thing
all the way to the coast, and sent messages to his friends Senhors
Ferrao, Isidore, Asevedo, and Nunes, to treat me as they would himself.
From every one of these gentlemen I am happy to acknowledge that I
received most disinterested kindness, and I ought to speak well forever
of Portuguese hospitality. I have noted each little act of civility
received, because somehow or other we have come to hold the Portuguese
character in rather a low estimation. This may have arisen partly from
the pertinacity with which some of them have pursued the slave-trade,
and partly from the contrast which they now offer to their illustrious
ancestors--the foremost navigators of the world. If my specification of
their kindnesses will tend to engender a more respectful feeling to the
nation, I shall consider myself well rewarded. We had three large canoes
in the company which had lately come up with goods from Senna. They
are made very large and strong, much larger than any we ever saw in the
interior, and might strike with great force against a rock and not be
broken. The men sit at the stern when paddling, and there is usually a
little shed made over a part of the canoe to shade the passengers from
the sun. The boat in which I went was furnished with such a covering, so
I sat quite comfortably.

Chapter 32.

Leave Tete and proceed down the River--Pass the Stockade of Bonga--
Gorge of Lupata--"Spine of the World"--Width of River--Islands--War
Drum at Shiramba--Canoe Navigation--Reach Senna--Its ruinous
State--Landeens levy Fines upon the Inhabitants--Cowardice of native
Militia--State of