of priests and
sacred edifices seen in their midst, then ought the Maltese to be
pre-eminently a devout people; for it seems as if every third building
is a church, and every other man one meets a priest; whilst the
incessant and not always melodious clanging of bells all day long, is a
constant reminder that there is no lack of opportunity for devotees.

So far as the outward appearance of the priests may be taken as the
index to the man's worldly position, I should pronounce their calling
anything but a lucrative one; for a more seedy-looking class is rarely
to be met with. Their care-worn faces and rusty and tattered garments
testifying that in Valetta, at least, the proverbial easy and jolly life
of the priesthood does not prevail.

In spite of the lack of good building material, there are some very fine
buildings in Malta--notably, the palace, the cathedral of San Giovanni,
and the opera house. The palace has its immediate entrance from the
Strada Reale, by means of an arched gateway of Oriental design, whilst
iron railings extend along the whole front of the structure on either
side the gate. Within is the palace square, beautifully and tastefully
laid out with rare exotics and flowering trees, floral designs and fish
ponds. A grand marble stairway indicates the direction we are to take to
reach the interior of the pile, at the head of which is a sort of
vestibule, or hall, when all further progress is barred by the presence
of one of the palace functionaries. We explain our errand, said
functionary demurs, pulls a long face, makes sundry excuses as to its
not being the proper day and so on, whilst all the time he is making a
mental calculation as to the value of the expected "tip." The workings
of that man's mind are as patent as the day. An English shilling
speedily smooths the wrinkles off that puckered brow as if by a miracle,
and makes us the best of friends. What wonders the little medallion
portrait of the Majesty of England will work, what hearts soften, what
doors unlock, and what hypocrites make! With a flattering and obsequious
bow our guide leads the way.

The palace was built by the Knights as their regal residence, and as
everything in it has been most religiously preserved, the various rooms
will present a pretty fair picture of the manner of life of these
soldier priests, whose portraits adorns the walls around. To the frame
of each a metal label is attached, on which is an inscription in Latin,