of the masonry speedily improves on emerging from the
gloomy alleys into the magnificent Strada Reale, more of a roadway than
a street, for though there are many grand edifices and numerous shop
fronts, yet one may walk to Floriana on the one hand, and to Civita
Vecchia on the other, without turning to the right or left.

This crowded thoroughfare presents at this special time in particular a
most cosmopolitan appearance, for we have dropped in at Malta during the
sojourn here of the Indian Contingent, brought to Europe in anticipation
of difficulties with Russia.

The Maltese themselves, though unquestionably a small race, are wiry and
capable of enduring great hardships. They are very skilful artisans,
the filigree jewellery of their silversmiths, for example, is unequalled
as a work of art by anything of its kind in Europe. They are splendid
divers, and seem equally at home in the water as on the land; the
smallest coin thrown overboard being brought to the surface in a
twinkling. Whatever their original language might have been, that which
they now possess is a most animated one; for they throw their spars
about in a most alarming manner in emphasis of what they say, inclining
one to the belief that sailors have of this people, namely--if you tie a
Maltese hands he can't speak.

Just a word or two descriptive of the sexes: the men we will dismiss
with a few words; they are, as I said before, below the medium height,
with dark Italian faces and eyes, but otherwise not remarkable. The
women are, though, or perhaps I ought to have said their appearance is.
Landing in Malta for the first time, a stranger is apt to conclude that
every woman he sees is either a sister of mercy or a nun. This is due,
in a great measure, to their national costume, about the only national
possession they can now boast of, which consists of a loose gown of
rusty black and a hood-like covering over the head and shoulders, also
black. This construction throws their face--a rather comely one--into
deep shade, almost as sombre-looking as their dress. No doubt if they
could be induced to wear the various so-called aids to nature which our
ladies use to make "a good figure," the Maltese women might do as an
advertisement for Worth; but under the present system of dressing well,
I would guarantee to produce as shapely a structure out of a stuffed
bread bag with a spun-yarn around its middle.

If a people be religious, in proportion to the number