and cheese form an extra course at some suppers. In hotels, of course,
the simple family dinner of three or four courses is replaced by a
more elaborate feast of many courses.

The anniversaries of the death of friends are remembered by dressing
in black, burning candles before their portraits, and visiting their
graves. There is also one day in spring which is celebrated as a kind
of combination of All Saints Day and Decoration Day, when every one
visits the cemeteries, leaving flowers and wreaths in memory of the
loved and lost. Funeral services are held, both at the homes and in
the churches, and are often accompanied by very impressive and
majestic music. In at least one of the cemeteries there is a large and
scientifically arranged crematory. A recent judicial decision,
however, forbids cremation within the municipal jurisdiction.

Sundays, as is well known, are not observed in Germany as in England
and Scotland. But in the parts of Berlin which we were accustomed to
see on that day, including two miles or more between our residence and
the central part of the city, the general sobriety and orderly
appearance would compare favorably with that in the better parts of
many American cities. We were asked on our first Sunday at the
dinner-table if we would like to have seats secured for us at the
opera that evening. Operatic performances and concerts are among the
better entertainments offered on Sunday evenings. The laws are strict,
however, regarding quiet in the streets and the closing of places of
business until after Sunday morning service in the churches. In the
finest residence portions of some American cities we have been
frequently disturbed by the street-cries of hucksters during divine
service on Sunday mornings, while the ear-piercing shouts of newspaper
venders disturb all the peace of the early morning hours. Dime
museums and other places flaunt their attractions in the faces of the
crowd who gather at their doors, and many places of business seem to
be always open. It was not our experience to see or hear anything like
this in Germany. Even the law of despotic power is better than none at
all,--often far better than enlightened law not enforced. Policemen in
the streets of Berlin make short work with the luckless tradesman who
leaves his blinds or doors open on Sunday before two o'clock P.M. Of
course restaurants and places of food supply are open. To all outward
appearance Berlin was a fairly well-order