are the feeling, in this cold, mechanical worship of the
Fatherhood of God, as it seemed to me, with the vague disappointment
of climbing stairs in the dark, and stretching out foot and hand for
another which is not there. The Christmas torches were burning in the
Schloss-platz and the market-places without, crowded for days and
nights past with a busy multitude, making ready for the
Christ-festival which was to light a Christmas-tree that night in
every home in Germany. Even Jews could not resist the gladness; and
their homes, like the rest, had every one its Christmas-tree and its
fill of cheer, paying their tribute to the world-wide joy, even though
they would not. But as I sat among them and went forth with them, I
thought also of their ancestral line stretching back to Abraham
through centuries of the most wonderful history which belongs to any
race. Beside these Israelites, how puerile the fame and deeds of the
Hohenzollerns! The sixty or seventy thousand Jews of Berlin hold in
their hands, it is said, a large part of the wealth of the city; but
they are proscribed, and it is thought by many, unjustly treated
before the law.
The one English church in Berlin rejoices in a new and beautiful
though chaste and modest edifice in the gardens of Monbijou Palace.
The site, presented by the Emperor William I., is in the heart of the
city, surrounded, in this quiet and beautiful place, by many
interesting historic associations. The edifice was built chiefly
through the efforts of the Crown Princess Victoria, who raised in
London in a few hours a large part of the necessary funds, and who
also devoted to this object, so dear to her English heart, presents
received at her silver wedding. The service attracts on Sunday
mornings, of course, all adherents of the Church of England, as well
as many Americans, to whom the magnet of an Episcopal service is
greater than that of the association of Christians of all
denominations in the devout and simple worship of the Chapel in Junker
Strasse, where the Union American and British service is held. One of
the first places we essayed to find in Berlin was the chapel at
present used by this organization. Our German landlady had unwittingly
misdirected us, and we insisted on her direction, to the bewilderment
of our cabman. Up one strange street and down another he drove, with
sundry protests and shakes of the head on our part. We insist on
"Heulmann Strasse." He stops and inquires. "Nei
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