lf-past five, and the performance seldom
begins later than six or seven. This interferes with the time of the
usual evening meal, so that refreshments at these places are always in
order. One of the most characteristic evenings maybe spent at the
Philharmonie, where the best music is given at popular prices several
times each week. Tickets seldom cost more than fifteen or eighteen
cents, and may be bought by the package for much less. This is a
favorite place with the music-loving Germans, and for many Americans
as well. Nearly all the German ladies take their knitting or
fancy-work. The large and fine hall is filled on these occasions with
chairs clustered around small tables accommodating from two to six.
Here families and friends gather, chat in the intervals, and listen to
the music, quietly sipping their beer or chocolate, and supper is
served in the intermission to those who order it. Smoking is
forbidden, but seldom is the hour after supper free from fumes of
smokers who quietly venture to light their cigars unrebuked unless the
room gets _too_ blue. Many entire families seem to make nightly
rendezvous at these concerts, enjoying the music as only Germans do,
and setting many a pretty picture in the minds of strangers. The
concerts are over by nine or ten o'clock, but the performances at
theatre and opera are frequently not concluded before half-past ten or
eleven, and an after-supper at a _cafe_ or at home is a consequent
necessity. In one aspect of behavior at concerts, American audiences
may well imitate our German friends. The beginning of every piece of
music is the signal for instantaneous cessation from conversation. I
do not remember ever having been annoyed during the performance of
music, either in public or private, while in Germany, by the talking
of any except Americans or other foreigners. To the music-loving
Germans this is among the greatest of social sins.
III.
EDUCATION.
The buildings of the Berlin University are somewhat scattered, but the
edifice known by this name is situated opposite the Imperial Palace,
in the finest part of the city. The building was once the palace of
Prince Henry, brother of Frederick the Great. It is built around three
sides of a court open southward to the street, guarded by a high
ornamental iron fence. Before it are the sitting statues of the
brothers Humboldt, in fine white marble, on high pedestals. That of
Alexander von Humboldt, in particular, in
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