the afore-mentioned chapels.

Standing beneath the _croisee_, under a simple ogival vaulting, the ribs
of which are supported by richly carved capitals and elegant shafts, the
tourist is almost as favourably impressed by the view of the high altar
to the east and of the choir to the west, as is the case in Toledo. For
in Oviedo begins that series of Gothic churches in which the aesthetic
impression is not restricted to architectural or sculptural details
alone, but is also produced by the blinding display of metal, wood, and
other decorative accessories.

The _retablo_--a fine Gothic specimen--stands boldly forth against the
light coming from the apse in the rear, while on the opposite side of
the transept handsome, deep brown choir stalls peep out from behind a
magnificent iron _reja_. So beautiful is the view of the choir's
ensemble that the spectator almost forgives it for breaking in upon the
grandeur of the nave.

The chapels buried in the walls of the north aisle have most of them
been built in too extravagant a manner; the south aisle, on the other
hand, is devoid of such characteristic rooms, but contains some highly
interesting tomb slabs.

The cloister to the south of the church is a rich and florid example of
late ogival; it is, above all, conspicuous for the marvellous variety of
its decorative motives, both as regards the sculptural scenes of the
capitals (which portray scenes in the lives of saints and Asturian
kings, and are almost grotesque, though by no means carved without fire
and spirit) and the fretwork of the arches which look out upon the
garth.

The Camara Santa, or treasure-room, is an annex to the north of the
cathedral, and dates from the ninth or tenth century; it is small, and
was formerly used as a chapel in the old Romanesque building torn down
in 1380. Beside it, in the eleventh century, was constructed another and
larger room in the same style, with the characteristic Romanesque
vaulting, the rounded windows, and the decorative motives of the massive
pillars and capitals.

[Illustration: CLOISTER OF OVIEDO CATHEDRAL]

II

COVADONGA

To the battle of Covadonga modern Spain owes her existence, that is, if
we are to believe the legends which have been handed down to us, and
which rightfully or wrongfully belong to history. Under the
circumstances, it is not surprising that the gratitude of later monarchs
should have erected a church on the site of the famous battle, and