xist but
in an insignificant quantity: the northern window, the windows of the
high altar, and those of the Chapel of St. James are about the only ones
dating from the fifteenth century that are left standing to-day; they
are easily recognizable by the rich, mellow tints unattained in modern
stained glass.

As accessories, foremost to be mentioned are the choir stalls, which are
of an elegant and severe workmanship totally different from the florid
carving of those in Toledo. The high altar, on the other hand, is devoid
of interest excepting for the fine ogival sepulchre of King Ordono II;
the remaining chapels, some of which contain art objects of value, need
not claim the tourist's special attention.

By way of conclusion: the cathedral of Leon, restored to-day after years
of ruin and neglect, stands forth as one of the master examples of
Gothic workmanship, unrivalled in fairy-like beauty and, from an
architectural point of view, the very best example of French ogival to
be met with in Spain.

Moreover, those who wrought it, felt the real principles of all Gothic
architecture. Many are the cathedrals in Spain pertaining to this great
school, but not one of them can compare with that of Leon in the way the
essential principle was _felt_ and _expressed_. They are all beautiful
in their complex and hybrid style, but none of them can claim to be
Gothic in the way they are built. For wealth, power, and luxury in
details is generally the lesson Spanish cathedrals teach, but they do
not give their lancets and shafts, their vertical lines and pointed
arches, the chance to impress the visitor or true believer with those
sentiments so peculiar to the great ogival style.

The cathedral of Leon is, in Spain, the unique exception to this rule.
Save only those constructive errors or dissonances previously referred
to, and which tend to counteract the soaring characteristic, it could be
considered as being pure in style. Nevertheless, it is not only the
truest Gothic cathedral on the peninsula, but one of the finest in the
world.

At the same time, it is no less true that it is not so Spanish as either
the Gothic of Burgos or of Toledo.

* * * * *

In 1063 the King of Leon, Fernando I., signed a treaty with the Arab
governor of Sevilla, obliging the latter to hand over to the Catholic
monarch, in exchange for some other privileges, the corpse of San
Isidoro. It was conveyed to Leon, where a c