es across the streams, one of which is still
existing to-day, and leads into the town which bears his name.
He had even gone so far as to establish a rustic sort of an inn where
the pilgrims could pass the night and eat (without paying?). He also
constructed a church beside his inn. Upon dying, he was canonized Santo
Domingo de la Calzada (Domingo was his name, and _calzada_ is old
Spanish for highroad). The Alfonsos of Castile were grateful to the
humble saint for having saved them the expense and trouble of looking
after their roads, and ordained that a handsome church should be erected
on the spot where previously the humble inn and chapel had stood. Houses
grew up around it rapidly and the dignity of the new temple was raised
in consequence.
Of the four cities of Upper Rioja, the only one worthy of the name of
city is Logrono, with its historical bridge across the Ebro, a bridge
that was held, according to the tradition, by the hero, Ruy Diaz Gaona,
and three valiant companions against a whole army of invading Navarrese.
The name Lucronio or Logrono is first mentioned in a document toward
the middle of the eleventh century. The date of its foundation is
absolutely unknown, and all that can be said is that, once it had fallen
into the hands of the monarchs of Castile (1076), it grew rapidly in
importance, out-shining the other three Rioja cities. It is seated on
the southern banks of the Ebro in the most fertile part of the whole
region, and enjoys a delightful climate. Since 1850 it has been raised
to the dignity of an episcopal see.
As regards the architectural remains of the four cities in the Upper
Rioja valley, they are similar to those of Navarra, properly speaking,
though not so pure in their general lines. In other words, they belong
to the decadent period of Gothic art. Moreover, they have one and all
been spoiled by ingenious, though dreadful mixtures of plateresque,
Renaissance, and grotesque decorative details, and consequently the real
remains of the old twelfth and thirteenth century Gothic and Romanesque
constructions are difficult to trace.
_Najera._--Absolutely nothing remains of the old Romanesque church built
by the king Don Garcia. A new edifice of decadent Gothic, mixed with
Renaissance details, and dating from the fifteenth century, stands
to-day; it contains a magnificent series of choir stalls of excellent
workmanship, and similar to those of Burgos. The cloister, in spite of
the Ara
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