the ogival arches, is far
better as regards the artist's conception of beauty; the stone carving
is also of a better class.

Returning to the interior of the building, preferably by the transept,
the handsomest part of the church, the spectator perceives a double
ambulatory behind the high altar; the latter, as well as the choir, is
low, and a fine view is obtained of the ensemble. The central nave,
almost twice as high and little broader than the aisles, is crowned by a
double triforium of Gothic elegance.

Seen from the transept, it would appear as though there were four aisles
on the west side instead of two, a peculiar deception produced by the
lateral opening of the last chapels, exactly similar in construction
to the arch which crowns the intersection of the aisles and transept.

[Illustration: TOWER OF AVILA CATHEDRAL]

In the northern and southern extremity of the transept two handsome
rosaces, above a row of lancet windows, let in the outside light through
stained panes.

The impression produced by the interior of the cathedral is greatly
superior to that received from without. In the latter case curiosity is
about the only sentiment felt by the spectator, whereas within the
temple does not lack a simple beauty and mystery.

As regards sculptural details, the best are doubtless the low reliefs to
be seen to the rear of the choir, as well as several sepulchres, of
which the best--and one of the best Renaissance monuments of its kind in
Spain--is that of the Bishop Alfonso Tostado in the ambulatory. The
_retablo_ of the high altar is also a magnificent piece of work of the
second half of the fifteenth century and the beginning of the
sixteenth.

III

SEGOVIA

Avila's twin sister, Segovia, retains its old Celtiberian name; it
retains, also, the undeniable proofs of Roman domination in its
far-famed aqueduct and in its amphitheatre.

According to the popular tradition, San Hierateo, the disciple of St.
Paul, was the first bishop in the first century, but probably the see
was not erected until about 527, when it is first mentioned in a
Tolesian document; the name of the first bishop (historical) is Peter,
who was present at the third Council in Toledo (589).

The local saint is one San Fruto, who, upon the approach of the Saracen
hosts, gathered together a handful of fugitives and retired to the
mountains; his brother Valentine and his sister Engracia (of Aragonese
fame?) died martyrs to their