d there
a few orange, lime, and banana trees, mingled with the Indian laurel,
which forms a grateful shade by its dense foliage. The royal palm is
strongly individualized, differing from other trees of the same
family. It is usually from sixty to eighty feet in height at what may
be called its maturity, and not unfrequently reaches a hundred, the
tall trunk slightly swelling near the middle and tapering at either
extremity. The upper portion is of a fresh and shining green,
contrasting with the lower section, which is of a light slate color.
It is crowned by a tuft of branches and leaves at its apex, like a
bunch of ostrich feathers drooping in all directions. It seems as
though the palm could not be out of place in any spot. It imparts
great beauty to the scenery in and about Havana. When it is found
dotting a broad stretch of country here and there in isolated groups,
or even singly, it is always the first object to catch and delight the
eye. It is also a marked and beautiful feature where it forms a long
avenue, lining the road on either side leading to a sugar or coffee
plantation, but it requires half a century to perfect such an avenue.

The Plaza de Armas, fronting the Governor's palace, is a finely kept
square, and until the Parque de Isabella was finished, it was the
great centre of fashion, and the place of evening resort. At one
corner of this Plaza is an insignificant chapel, built upon the spot
where Columbus is said to have assisted at the first mass celebrated
on the island; an anachronism easily exposed were it worth the while.
The great discoverer never landed at Havana during his lifetime,
though his body was brought hither for burial, centuries after his
death. There is one fact relating to this site in the Plaza de Armas
fully authenticated, and which is not without interest. An enormous
old ceiba tree originally stood here, beneath whose branches mass was
sometimes performed. This remarkable tree having expired of old age
was removed by order of the Governor-General, and the chapel was
erected on the spot where its widespread branches had cast their
shadow for centuries. We did not see the interior of the chapel, as it
is opened but once a year to the public,--on the 16th of November,
which is the feast day of San Cristobal, when mass is celebrated in
honor of the great discoverer. It is said to contain a marble bust of
Columbus, and two or three large historical paintings.

This square is divided