f cooking is very similar to the French, plus
the universal garlic, which, like tobacco, appears to be a prime
necessity to the average Spanish appetite. One does not visit Cuba,
however, with the expectation of finding all the niceties of the table
which are ordinary comforts at home, and therefore he is quite content
to enjoy the delightful fruits of the country, the novel scenery, the
curious vegetation, and the captivating climate, which cannot fail to
compensate for many small annoyances.

One of the most pleasant and healthful resorts for a temporary home on
the island is probably the small but thrifty town of Guines, situated
about forty-five miles from Havana, with which it is connected by
rail; indeed, this was the first railroad constructed in Cuba, that
between Matanzas and Havana being the second. Both were mainly the
result of American enterprise and capital. There are now a little over
nine hundred miles of railroad in operation, and more is urgently
demanded to open internal communication with important sections. The
water communication along the southern and northern coasts is mostly
depended upon, and a very well organized system is sustained by three
or four lines of domestic steamers. The immediate locality of Guines
is thought to be one of the most salubrious and best for invalids on
the western division of the island, and is largely resorted to by
Americans. It has generally more of the comforts considered necessary
for persons in delicate health than can readily be obtained in
Havana, and one has here the quiet and retirement which it is
impossible to find in the metropolis.

Here will be seen, as in all towns large or small in Cuba, a curious
place of amusement of circular form, called a "pit," where the natives
indulge their national passion for cock-fighting and gambling
combined. It is astonishing how pugnacious and fierce these birds
become by careful training; the instinct must be in them or it could
not be so developed. When brought together and opposed to each other
in battle, one must die, and often both do so, for they will fight as
long as they can stand on their feet. The pit is always crowded, and
the amount of money which changes hands daily in this cruel mode of
gambling is very considerable. Women not infrequently attend these
contests, but only those of the pariah class, certain back seats being
reserved for them, while here and there may be seen a shovel-hatted
priest, as eager